HomecalcTool

Insulation Calculator

Calculate depth, bags, and cost for blown cellulose, blown fiberglass, and fiberglass batts.

Insulation Type

Blown cellulose: best value for attics. Blown fiberglass: moisture-resistant. Fiberglass batts: for walls and floors between joists.

How to Use This Calculator

Select your insulation material using the buttons at the top: blown cellulose and blown fiberglass are for attics and open cavities, fiberglass batts are for walls and floors between joists. Enter the area to insulate in square feet — length times width for rectangular spaces, add sections for irregular shapes. Enter your target R-value. For most attics, R-38 to R-60 is standard depending on climate zone. If adding to existing insulation, enter your current R-value; the calculator finds only what you need to add. The result shows depth to add, bags or rolls needed, and a cost estimate. For fiberglass batts, roll coverage varies by product; verify the square footage on your specific package before ordering.

How to Calculate Insulation

The formula for blown insulation: Bags Needed = Area ÷ (Bag Volume ÷ Depth Needed) × 1.10 waste factor. Depth comes from your target R-value divided by the material's R-value per inch.

Example: 1,200 square foot attic, R-38, blown cellulose (3.7 R per inch): Depth = 38 ÷ 3.7 = 10.3 inches Bag volume = 30 lbs ÷ 1.5 lb/cu ft installed = 20 cubic feet per bag Coverage = 20 ÷ (10.3 ÷ 12) = 23.3 sq ft per bag Bags = 1,200 ÷ 23.3 × 1.10 = 56.7, rounded up to 57 bags.

Blown fiberglass uses 2.5 R per inch instead of 3.7, requiring more depth and more bags for the same R-value. Blown cellulose is denser and typically costs less per bag with better coverage per dollar. For fiberglass batts, roll coverage is approximately 40 square feet per roll but varies by product width and length; always check the package.

Insulation by Application

Location Best material Target R-value DIY-friendly
Attic floor (new)Blown celluloseR-38 to R-60Yes
Attic floor (top-up)Blown cellulose over existingAdd to reach R-38 to R-60Yes
Wall (new construction)Fiberglass battsR-13 (2x4) / R-19 (2x6)Yes
Wall (retrofit)Dense-pack blown celluloseR-13 to R-21Harder
Floor over crawl spaceFiberglass battsR-19 to R-30Yes
Basement rim joistRigid foam + fiberglass battsR-15 to R-25Yes

Insulation Tips

Check your attic's current R-value before buying anything. Many homes built before 1990 have R-11 to R-19 in the attic, well below current recommendations of R-38 to R-60 depending on climate zone. Adding to existing insulation is the most cost-effective upgrade; you do not need to remove old batts before blowing cellulose over them.

Rent a blowing machine when buying bags. Most hardware stores that sell blown insulation bags offer free or low-cost machine rental with a minimum bag purchase. A two-person team — one loading the machine, one directing the hose — can complete a 1,500 square foot attic in four to six hours.

For batts in walls, seal all electrical boxes and penetrations with acoustic sealant before installing. Insulation pressed around unsealed gaps performs significantly below its rated R-value. Air sealing matters more than adding extra thickness once a wall is already partially insulated.

What to Buy

For blown cellulose, bags typically weigh 25 to 30 lbs. Coverage per bag is printed on the packaging for common R-values. Always use the bag's own coverage chart, not a generic formula, because installed density varies between products.

For blown fiberglass, bags run 19 to 25 lbs each. Coverage per bag is lower than cellulose at equivalent R-values because fiberglass is less dense and requires more depth. It is faster to blow and does not absorb moisture, which makes it a better choice in humid climates or areas with potential water exposure.

For fiberglass batts, match the batt width to your framing: 15 inches for 16-inch on-center studs or joists, 23 inches for 24-inch on-center. Unfaced batts are used when adding insulation over existing material. Faced batts with a kraft-paper vapor barrier are for new construction and specific climate zone requirements where vapor control is required on a particular side of the assembly.

Frequently Asked Questions

What R-value do I need for my attic? +
The Department of Energy recommends R-38 to R-60 for attics in most US climate zones. Zone 1 and 2 (South Florida, Hawaii): R-30 to R-49. Zone 3 (Southeast, West Coast): R-30 to R-60. Zone 4 (Mid-Atlantic, Pacific Northwest): R-38 to R-60. Zones 5 through 8 (Midwest, Mountain states, Alaska): R-49 to R-60. Most existing homes in cold climates are under-insulated. If you have R-11 to R-19 in your attic, upgrading to R-38 or R-49 is one of the highest-return energy improvements you can make.
How many bags of blown insulation do I need for 1,000 square feet? +
It depends on your target R-value and material. Blown cellulose to R-30: approximately 37 bags. Blown cellulose to R-38: approximately 48 bags. Blown cellulose to R-49: approximately 62 bags. Blown fiberglass requires about 40 to 50 percent more bags than cellulose for the same R-value because it is less dense. Use the calculator with your specific target to get an accurate count with waste factored in.
Can I blow cellulose over existing fiberglass batts? +
Yes. Blown cellulose can be installed over existing fiberglass batts without removing them. Lay the batts flat if they are still in good condition. If existing batts are vapor-barrier faced (kraft paper facing), the facing should face down toward the warm side of the house. Blowing over existing insulation is the standard approach when topping up attics that are under-insulated.
What is the difference between blown cellulose and blown fiberglass? +
Blown cellulose (3.7 R per inch) is made from recycled paper and is denser than blown fiberglass (2.5 R per inch). Cellulose requires fewer bags for the same R-value and typically costs less. Blown fiberglass is lighter, easier to breathe in, and does not absorb moisture — a practical advantage in humid climates or attics with any history of air leaks. Both are DIY-friendly with a rented blowing machine. Cellulose settles slightly over time; fiberglass does not.
How thick is R-38 blown insulation? +
Blown cellulose at R-38 requires approximately 10.3 inches of depth (38 ÷ 3.7 R per inch). Blown fiberglass at R-38 requires approximately 15.2 inches (38 ÷ 2.5 R per inch). These depths are for new installations starting from R-0. If you have existing insulation, only the additional depth is needed. Measure your current insulation depth and use the existing R-value field in the calculator to find exactly what to add.
Can I rent a blowing machine for blown insulation? +
Yes. Most hardware stores and home improvement centers that sell blown insulation bags offer free blowing machine rental with a minimum bag purchase, typically 10 to 20 bags. The machine is pneumatic and requires a standard 110V outlet. For attic installation, two people are strongly recommended: one to load bags into the machine, one to direct the hose in the attic space. A 1,500 square foot attic typically takes 4 to 6 hours for a two-person team.
Does more insulation always lower energy bills? +
Up to a point, yes. The largest gains come from getting under-insulated attics up to minimum recommended levels. Going from R-11 to R-38 in an attic typically reduces heating and cooling costs by 15 to 25 percent. Going from R-38 to R-60 adds smaller additional savings. Returns diminish at very high R-values. Air sealing — caulking and foam-sealing gaps around pipes, wires, and other penetrations — often delivers more savings per dollar than adding extra insulation thickness once you are already at recommended levels.

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